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Scavenger Hunt, Venetian Style

One of the plusses of having visited Venice multiple times is that I didn’t have to hit the big tourist attractions. I’ve already taken the requisite gondola ride down the Grand Canal. And the free...

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T-minus 7 and counting

In seven days I leave for Italy. For six whole, glorious weeks. I’m so excited that I’m operating on pure adrenaline. Which makes sleeping difficult, but whatever. The jet lag will knock me out once I...

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But what will you do in Italy?!?

Sarde in saor con polenta When I told people I was going to Italy for six weeks, I tended to get the same reactions: Wow, that’s great! I’m so jealous. But what will you do for six weeks? My answer was...

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A Venetian tours the Grand Canal

We are now Venetians! One of the defining features of Venice is the Grand Canal and it’s my favorite way to see the city. I love to ride a vaporetto down and up the Grand Canal, in any weather. Really,...

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Not every boat in Venice floats

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La Vogalonga (the long row)

Venice does a lot of celebrating on the water, including this year’s 40th annual Vogalonga. It’s a regatta of different rowing clubs from all over the world gathering to row 20 miles around Venice. I...

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Osteria Ai Assassini

You can’t always recreate the magic when you revisit a restaurant you enjoyed years ago, but sometimes you can. I recently had lunch at Osteria Ai Assassini and it was as good as I remember. The first...

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Osteria Anice Stellato

How I’m going to return to regular life after this trip, I’ve no idea. Who’s going to prepare my multi-course lunches, complete with vino bianco, pasta and fresh fish (and a perfect cafe macchiato)?...

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Al Trono di Attila

I love love love this place on the island of Torcello. We first ate here in 1998, our very first trip to Italy. We had no idea what was going on or what to order for lunch. After smelling the food that...

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I ate some liver (and I liked it)

(written with the tune of Katy Perry’s I Kissed a Girl running through my head) Venice is well-known for many foods: black squid-ink pasta, fried little shrimps and other fish over polenta, sardines...

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